Eataly: Italian Megastore

Eataly has arrived in Roma, so of course, we had to go see what all the hype was about (along with the rest of the city).  Firstly, the place is enormous – it occupies an old railway station and has been restructured impeccably, turning what was once an eyesore into a glorious rebirth of the Ostiense neighborhood.

The idea is genius: bring together all the most prestigious local products from each region of Italy – which you normally would have to travel to find – and create one amazing Italian megastore.  That incredible dessert you had in Positano?  The homemade pasta in Puglia?  You’ll find it here.  It’s a fantastic opportunity to have access to some of the world’s most cherished alimentary items. 

Each (very long) level is divided by delicacy: there’s the gelato section, the piadina section, the olive oil section, the meat section, the fish section, and much more.  In each respective area, there’s a corresponding restaurant where you can have a bite to eat.  So, while shopping for the perfect fiorentina steak, you can also sit and enjoy one.

The only negative aspect was, as with any novelty in Rome, the place was absolutely packed.  So much so, it was hard to understand what to do and where to look, let alone attempt to actually eat something.  It was 10pm, and every single restaurant was still full, with groups of people hovering around waiting.  There were signs explaining how getting a table worked, and instruction number one – “Find an open table” – made me laugh out loud.  In Italy, no reservations/number system equals pure chaos, so needless to say, we didn’t stick around to find out what happened when someone finally did get up.  It’s quite frustrating being surrounded by all that wonderful food, and not being able to eat anything.  We’ll have to go back when things calm down in a few months.

It’s truly a fantastic initiative, and is slowly expanding around the world.  In the US, aside from the New York City location opened about a year ago, stores will soon be inaugurated in Chicago and Los Angeles as well.  

On the website, Eataly also outlines its lofty aspirations to use business as a catalyst for the rebirth of a struggling nation:

Sì, ci crediamo! Siamo convinti che la belleza salverà l’Italia. E’ per questo che Eataly Roma è dedicato alla bellezza. La bellezza dell’agroalimentare, la bellezza dell’arte, la bellezza della musica e la bellezza dell’ironia.  E poi ancora… la moda, il design, l’industria manifatturiera di precisione, il turismo. 

Yes, we believe it! We’re convinced that beauty will save Italy. It’s for this reason that Eataly Rome is dedicated to beauty.  The beauty of agriculture, the beauty of art, the beauty of music and irony.  And thensome… fashion, design, the manufacturing of precision, and tourism.   

Travel highlight: Villasimius, Sardegna

A couple months ago, we took a long weekend trip to the island of Sardegna (better known as Sardinia in English). It’s the second-largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily) with more than eleven-hundred miles of extraordinary coastline.

The only way I can describe it is: serious beauty overload. This island is blessed with a rugged, staggering kind of natural beauty I’ve rarely seen before, if ever. The plane ride from Rome was forty minutes gate to gate – we were only in the air for about twenty minutes before approaching this massive rock of land surging out of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

The entire island boasts some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, with the kind of white sand and crystal clear, turquoise water Americans can’t locate anywhere North of the Caribbean. In fact, when I first got a glimpse of the magnificent color of the water, my first thought was: These people are crazy to bother going to the Maldives, South Pacific, etc., with this glorious place right in their back yard.

Sardegna, especially the Northern end, has a reputation as one of the most posh vacation spots for the Italian elite. In the Summer, it’s where the showbiz folk, soccer stars, and wannabes come to party on their yachts and be stalked (purposefully, of course) by the paparazzi. Since it was off-season and we knew most places would be closed, this time we opted for the more humble and relaxed Villasimius, on the Southern end, renowned for its amazing beaches and rocky, rugged landscape.

There’s something about this part of the island that gives the impression of a wild, untamed land. You know you’re still technically in Italy, but it feels like another corner of the Earth. It’s literally developed only along the coast; inland is a vast landscape of rolling hills, lush vegetation, and prickly pear trees – and not much of anything else. To get from one tiny beach town to the next, you have to be able to stomach a 30-minute ride on a windy road hanging over the bluffs, which is the only option (and actually a quite pleasant one, thanks to the abundant guardrails).

Sardegna is a destination most vacationing Americans never get to while visiting Italy. In fact, after so many years of travel I can’t believe it took me this long to get there. I suppose it was never on my must-see list of places since I’d never really heard much about it before living here. This island is still largely a best-kept Italian secret, and something tells me it’s that way for a reason (my theory is the ultra-wealthy have banded together in an effort to keep it tucked away as their private getaway, one of the rare places shielded from the dreaded foreign tourist invasion – although it was packed with Germans when we were there).

Anyway, since I have a thing for video cameras (my parents can attest to the countless tapes of embarrassing footage I took as a child), and I’m also pretty handy with editing, I’ve been trying to make a habit of taking some good video everywhere we go and creating a short recap of our trip. Makes for a great keepsake, and now, a great blog post!

Mi raccomando (keep in mind), your next trip itinerary abroad should definitely include this chic yet relatively unknown island. You won’t regret it.

Foodgasm of the Moment: Cacio e Pepe

Cacio e Pepe con fiori di zucca.

Welcome to my favorite traditional Roman pasta: cacio (pecorino cheese) and pepe (pepper). This particular dish is from one of our favorite restaurants, “Cuccurucù,” where they throw in some zucchini flowers for extra flavor (which is why I consider it one of the best in town).

The recipe is simple but delicious, as the star of this dish is the fresh pecorino cheese, a regional favorite. This specialty is one of the three most famous Roman pastas, and we could spend a lifetime trying the various versions at restaurants around the city. Actually, doesn’t sound too bad to me – let the taste-testing continue!

Foodgasm of the Moment: I Paccheri ai Frutti di Mare

I paccheri ai frutti di mare. Mmmmmm.

This week’s Foodgasm comes from the land where food reigns: la Campania, the region which is home to Naples, as well as the ancestors of many of our Italian-American friends.

The culinary tradition in Campania is staggering, so rest assured this won’t be the last time I highlight something from this area. My husband is also originally from here, so we’re down that way at least every couple of months.

This dish is one of my favorite primi (first courses), and is a specialty of the area. This particular beauty was served this past weekend at our niece Emilia’s communion party (along with about six other courses, which I apparently forgot to take pictures of due to food coma – I’ll try to do better next time).

I paccheri are a wide, flat pasta that lend themselves well to this dish; their shape creates a type of pocket for all the ingredients, assuring each bite is as full of deliciousness as the last.

I frutti di mare (seafood) in this case consist of fresh clams and mussels, steamed and prepared in a sauce of fresh cherry tomatoes with extra-virgin olive oil and a touch of hot pepper flakes. When ready, the paccheri are tossed together in a skillet with the sauce, then finished off with a sprinkling of fresh parsley.

Buonissimi!